Saturday, November 28, 2009

Metal Dark Angels Dreadnought

I don't normally paint dark angels, but years ago when I was first starting my Iron Scythes, I painted up one of their all metal dreads for use in my army. After a bath in simple green all of the gloopy ~15 year old paint was removed and a very heavy dread emerged. The mold is kind of wonky, with pits everywhere. Rather than do any cleanup work I just decided to lay down some paint with my air brush.

I am not very happy with how this guy turned out. I rarely use Dark Angels green, and I think
it is my unfamiliarity with it that makes it so hard to use. There is a slight transparency to it
that makes it really hard for me to work with, even though I normally really like thinned paint.
Despite how it turned out, I did a little black friday shopping to pick up some terminators,
some DA veterans, and the raven wing box set. Black, Bone, and DA green should really
challenge my painting skills. Maybe I should invest in some more simple green!

Anyone have a good recipe for clean looking DA green armor?

1 comment:

  1. Usually I start models with dark colours by priming them black.
    Considering that you say the model has pits'n'scratches, consider repairing them with the Liquid Green Stuff (or with some veeeery diluted Milliput): it helps smoothen the surface before priming, and you'll get a nicer result.

    From here, for Dark Angels I think there are two main ways, which I use both (and also mixing them); I'll use GW new names, the conversion to old is on GW site (to convert to Vallejo and other, check on the net)

    First one:
    Basecoat - one or two layers of thinned Caliban Green. If it does not cover enough (and *is* thinned enough), feel free to go for a third layer of the basecoat
    (optional Inking - wash mainly the recesses with diluted Nuln Oil or, even better, a mix of Nuln Oil:Biel-Tan Green:Lahmian Medium, about 1:1:3, I think; it will add depth marking the dents)
    [Note: here you will see *every* scratch and hole]
    Layer - 1 layer of Warpstone Glow (leaving most recessed areas)
    (optional Layer - 1 layer of 50% mix Warpstone Glow+Warboss Green, leaving a "border" of the other layer)
    Highlight - Warboss Green on edges
    Glaze - If contrasts are too showy, glaze with a mix of Warpstone Glow:Soap:water with a ratio of about 1:1:10. It should just blend the colours.
    Extreme Highlight - 50% mix of Warboss Green+White Scar (about 25-50% of the highlight area, the most lighted one)

    Second One:
    Heavy Drybrush - on the primed surface, generously drybrush with Caliban Green
    Drybrush - then drybrush with the midtone (Warpstone Glow, Emerald Green, Whatever)
    Light Drybrush - drybrush sparingly with Warboss Green on most elevated areas
    Result should be smoother (but with a dustier look), so it shouldn't need the glaze.
    If you want, you can add yet another drybrush of Warboss green+White (again, 50%) to the topmost edges.

    As I said, you could mix the two methods, for example by lightly drybrushing the midtone after the glazing (it should lighten the centre of the plates).