tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2896607568583881271.post2190368061459140692..comments2024-03-28T00:20:05.347-07:00Comments on 40k Hobby Blog: Metal Dark Angels DreadnoughtJohn Stieninghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01860350974000948346noreply@blogger.comBlogger1125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2896607568583881271.post-8323289451983728702012-09-16T04:56:32.460-07:002012-09-16T04:56:32.460-07:00Usually I start models with dark colours by primin...Usually I start models with dark colours by priming them black.<br />Considering that you say the model has pits'n'scratches, consider repairing them with the Liquid Green Stuff (or with some veeeery diluted Milliput): it helps smoothen the surface before priming, and you'll get a nicer result.<br /><br />From here, for Dark Angels I think there are two main ways, which I use both (and also mixing them); I'll use GW new names, the conversion to old is on GW site (to convert to Vallejo and other, check on the net)<br /><br />First one:<br />Basecoat - one or two layers of thinned Caliban Green. If it does not cover enough (and *is* thinned enough), feel free to go for a third layer of the basecoat<br />(optional Inking - wash mainly the recesses with diluted Nuln Oil or, even better, a mix of Nuln Oil:Biel-Tan Green:Lahmian Medium, about 1:1:3, I think; it will add depth marking the dents)<br />[Note: here you will see *every* scratch and hole]<br />Layer - 1 layer of Warpstone Glow (leaving most recessed areas)<br />(optional Layer - 1 layer of 50% mix Warpstone Glow+Warboss Green, leaving a "border" of the other layer)<br />Highlight - Warboss Green on edges<br />Glaze - If contrasts are too showy, glaze with a mix of Warpstone Glow:Soap:water with a ratio of about 1:1:10. It should just blend the colours.<br />Extreme Highlight - 50% mix of Warboss Green+White Scar (about 25-50% of the highlight area, the most lighted one)<br /><br />Second One:<br />Heavy Drybrush - on the primed surface, generously drybrush with Caliban Green<br />Drybrush - then drybrush with the midtone (Warpstone Glow, Emerald Green, Whatever)<br />Light Drybrush - drybrush sparingly with Warboss Green on most elevated areas<br />Result should be smoother (but with a dustier look), so it shouldn't need the glaze.<br />If you want, you can add yet another drybrush of Warboss green+White (again, 50%) to the topmost edges.<br /><br />As I said, you could mix the two methods, for example by lightly drybrushing the midtone after the glazing (it should lighten the centre of the plates).Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com