Step 1: Painting White
Add a dark grey base coat using Mechanics Grey. Vallejo thinner works fine with it.
Step 2: Using Tamiya X-20A Thinner instead of Vallejo, shade Uthuan grey over the majority of the shoulder pads. Spray the heads from the top and sides towards the front. Do not use vallejo thinner, it will clump the paint in the air brush.The gradient can be seen on the shoulders.
Using Vallejo white and Vallejo thinner, add a spot highlight a the top of the pad, or on whichever part of the pad is closest to the light source.
Gloss varnish the pads in preparation for decals.
Add a thin coat of micro set to each pad. Then apply the decals. Make certain that there is a cut between the two bottom sides of the Orar symbol. The top won't settle down easily if this is not done. Once the decals are on, apply micro sol and wait. The decals will look terrible initially. This is a patience game. Apply more micro sol as necessary. Go grab a coffee and come back and be surprised!
Marines were painted predominately with Mephiston red thinned with Vallejo thinner. At this stage you can see the colors achieves by layering Mephiston. A tiny bit of Evil Sunz Scarlet was used to edge a few of the plates. Sons of Orar are dark, not vibrant red. This will be toned down with oils and washes.
Soft armor and exhaust vents were painted with blowgun metal, and then washed with nuln oil.
This Zombie marine suffered the result of Vallejo matte varnish. The blue tint of the varnish really deadened the paint job. Some other varnish should be used. I have no idea what to use at this point, but Vallejo is out for red!
Two oil pin washes were used, dark yellow for the white areas and dark brown around each armor plate.
Chipping effects on tanks and vehicles are easy to apply with wild rider red and german black brown. I usually apply the highlight color first and then add the chip on top of it.
Wheels and any rubber parts like road wheels should be painted dark rubber rather than black or brown.
Slightly better photos
Pre-Shading Bikes (this can save some coats of mephiston red)
Nice work man, I'd suggest testors dullcoat for a mattecoat, I use it where I cant use my vallejo :)
ReplyDeleteReally dig that color scheme - looking great, man!
ReplyDeleteAces! I'm almost done prepping - onto priming likely this weekend!
ReplyDeleteReally enjoying these tutorial/guides, flow of your work (for lack of better terminologies). Its great to see the progress flow and how you are laying the colors, making decisions (like putting down highlight before the chip). Great stuff John!
ReplyDeleteReally nice, John, but where is your trademark weathering? Would look a million times better...
ReplyDelete