Saturday, November 7, 2009

The Shadowsword Lives

So post terrible frosting mishap, a green stuff scrubbing and some resprays, the shadowsword is looking ok. I really think I had something cool before, but at least this thin is salvageable. I really dislike thick gloppy paint, but unfortunately this guy has it in patches. I believe the testors dull coat caused the problem by drying and contracting the light coat of paint on the surface. It was an interesting effect on areas that were not totally whited out. This guy is due for a dunk in the delvin mud bath, maybe that will tighten things up a bit.


  1. I've found that the frost will quite happily take up a wash of colour, the Valkyrie that I'm working on frosted up badly on the black tail plane (using Purity Seal which normally works fine for me - in this case it was my own fault as I did the varnishing in less then ideal conditions and took the chance), I simply applied some really watered down black paint and you'd never know now.

  2. Next time will try a thinned down black ink as well. the problem with the frosting this time was that it added cracked paint to the mix. As the seal dried it cracked the surface layer of paint beneath it, causing the chaos black primer to show through. The effect was absolutely wild looking, but the surface was not smooth afterwards.

    I am one of those heretics that spray paints indoors, so my paint conditions should be the same every time.

  3. Wow really awesome effect. I saw laso somewhere some interesting method with use of varnish nad salt... But can't find it.

    ps. sorry for posting it here but could You post steb by step tutorial or just your scheme for this awesoem genestealers ? I really love this green tone but can't figure out how did You get it.

  4. Ahh yes I have had the contraction cracking happen a bit recently. I fixed it by using a light spray of Tamiya Light Grey "Fine" Surface Primer for Metal and Plastic before undercoating. It will even work on Resin. Be absolutely certain you get the "Fine" version and be very light handed with it as it will pool in detail really easily.
    Also if you use a semi-gloss or gloss undercoat spray (like Tamiya Racing White or their Blue that is the same colour as Necron Abyss) you can try using a matt sealant after undercoating to stop the thin overcoats moving and chipping.
    A neat thing I found out was that you can use the Tamiya Perspex paints (the PS range), that will normally peel off (designed for painting inside the clear racing shells for remote control Racers). All you have to do it spray it on, let it dry and then spray some purity seal over it. There are some really different colours in the range that you don't normally see but are Great for really odd colour schemes.

  5. Oh also Drathmere,
    I put a post about common causes of paint issues up on my blog. Feel free to use or abuse it as you will.

  6. Akozz,

    I am doing the genestealer tutorial right now. I am giving it a shot without using tamiya paint thinner so the final version should only include a very few number of paint. The washes are drying right now, so it might take another day before I can post it.


    I am heading over to your blog to check out your paint issues list. I really appreciate it!

  7. Drathmere,
    Another thing you can try is make sure the tin is at the same temp as the room, or at the recommended temp on the can (even if you have to warm it up). Otherwise this can cause funny things to happen as the aerosol changes pressure while being sprayed.
    Another trick you can try is something I do when I really need to Dullcoat something, turn on the reverse cycle aircon for an hour or two and spray in the room with it on. It will strip the moisture out of the air (this is why your eyes will get sore and dry in office buildings!). Or you can buy a de-humidifier, I don't have one but with the humid summer months starting I am considering it (rather than staying up till 3am to wait for the Dew to settle the moisture out of the air).