Warlord Titan Legs WIP 3

Instead of pinning the legs, I decided to drill holes into the titan in order to fill with JB Weld. I think these deep channels of JB Weld will hold the titan together well.

With the legs ready for posing, I decided to leverage the pelvis magnet and a lamp arm to use as a sort of chassis lift. I'm hoping this will hold the titan in place while I get the posing and eventual gluing right. It is a strange solution, but it appears to be working.

Warlord Titan Pelvis Magnets WIP 2

Progress is incredibly slow on these beasts, but I have a solution to the pelvis/torso joint. I think my embedded magnet in the pelvis coupled with 4 magnets in the torso will be enough to hold this guy together. At least I hope that is the case. So after coming up with the solution, I rewarded myself with a few hours of resin washing.

This is going to be a slow build!

Warlord Titan WIP 1

The process of building a warlord Titan has begun. This beast came in a huge box from FW, and has many days of part washing ahead, but today I decided to dry fit the torso area, and plan the magnet placements. I think I can use two huge magnets to hold the torso onto the groin piece, but I won't know for sure until I dremeled out cavities for them.

I'm really looking forward to painting this! This guy will be at NOVA this year.

Primaris Ultramarines Army So Far

I have had the bases completed for this army for a while, so I sat down today and based all of the new Primaris marines that I have painted. I really like how the force is coming together, but I am having some trouble with my dull coat, which is peeling off in some areas due to me handling the model. It is an easy fix, since all I have to do is respray a diluted new coat, but until I do so, the glossy undercoat shows through. This is not the display board for these guys, but I had it laying around.

Once the bulk of the troops are painted, I'll go back and add paint chipping and streaking to their armor. For now though, only the vehicles will be weathered.

3D Terrain Modeling

With the help of a friend, I've been learning Onshape to produce CAD drawings of terrain we need for our tables. I am astonish by how quickly I am taking to it. This is not normally how it goes when I start learning a new trade. With only a few days under my belt, I've managed to design two terrain pieces for 6mm wargamming. The first is a 28mm 40k-ish building. The second is the beginning of a freeway. I was initially worried about too much detail at such a small scale, but the Form 1+ SLA printer picks up so much detail, that I could easily go with smaller features.

The first print of the building looks fantastic on a Form 1+ SLA printer. I think our Epic Armageddon tables are going to look fantastic!

Custom Bases Painted With Pigments

In a twist of fate, the pigment I normally use on my 30k miniatures, Green Earth, turned reddish orange when applied to the bases using an alcohol wash. To try and tilt the color back towards yellow, I made a water/alcohol wash and applied some more Green Earth mixed with some Yellow Earth. So here we are now, with a blotchy yellowish tone. I like it. The yellow plays off the blue of the ultramarines really well. Now it had been my intention to make these bases work with my older ultramarines bases, as well as my 30k bases. That goal was not met, but I am ready to base these guys an move on.

Casting Bases Using Dental Plaster

The process of making moulds can be pretty easy if you are interested in casting dental plaster and don't intend to use a pressure pot or vacuum chamber. I decided to create a full set of master bases for use across my 40k and 30k armies. I won't use these for all of my miniatures, but it is extremely nice to have a set of bases ready to go whenever I want to create some. An added benefit is that while my regular bases are normally fragile, the solid dental plaster bases are not. These are incredibly durable. Also, since my bases are supposed to be concrete, as they get scratched the grey color material underneath looks like fresh cracked cement adding to the overall effect. 

Step 1: Make master bases

 Step 2: Build mould boxes

Step 3: Spray a coat of primer over the boxes to ensure that any super glue used during construction of the bases or the boxes is covered. Superglue will cause the silicone to cure badly, leaving soft uncured goop where it touches.

Step 4: Mix your silicone. I used two different types of silicone here, one that cures in 6 hours and another that cures in a slightly shorter time. I believe the purple dense one is OOMO 30.

Step 5: After waiting over night, release the silicone from the mould. Try to save your masters. They can be used if desired. (I won't, my masters get dumped straight into storage)

Step 6: Using Excalibur dental plaster start pouring bases. The key to a nice flat base is to overfill it and then after the plaster has started to separate from the water and sink into the moulds, to gently scrape the surface using a flat edge.

 Step 7: Paint. The small 25mm base on the right is one of the new bases. The 50mm base on the left is one of my old bases from several years ago. The 25mm base wasn't even primed. That cement is raw plaster with a dose of Secret Weapon Miniatures Green Earth pigment washed over the top. I then went back and scraped the base with an x-acto knife to add some designs.

Making Cracked Cement Bases

I've had a bunch of nearly finished miniatures awaiting bases for quite some time. Today I decided it was time to take care of that. To create these, I started with thin sheets of cast dental plaster. Using pliers and clippers I broke up the plaster in order to create these designs. I then used the debris from breaking them up mixed with anti-skid sand additive to fill in the holes. I think I have enough designs for an entire army now. Once these are dry, I'll clean them up and prep them for casting. My goal is to have an easy to use set of mould that I can break out and cast whenever I need them.

So, did I miss any base sizes? I think I got them all, but you never know with this strange new Games-Workshop.